Bespoke & Ready-to-Wear garments from Mark Austin are crafted around the central principles of true a couture fit.
Shirt collar: You should be able to fit three to four fingers inside the collar. Better shirt makers add ½” to the collar size to allow for shrinkage. When the shirt is first worn it should be a little big in the collar to allow for this shrinkage.
Hand-sewn Swiss collar: collar is sewn together not fused. The two layers of fabric can be felt between the fingers.
Removable Collar Stays: A quality shirt will have collar stays made of hard plastic or brass that are removable and replaceable. This gives the shirt a crisp, straight collar point collar and is removed before laundering to prevent damage or warping.
Sleeves: The sleeve should have enough fabric in length for the arm to bend without pulling too much on the cuff. The wrist or cuff of the shirt should fit snugly, so the additional sleeve length will fall over the hand and should be able to slide just one finger under the cuff of the shirt.
Shirt length: The shirt length should be long enough so that you can raise your arms get up and sit down without the shirt coming out of the trouser. Best case is the shirt tail should fall right at the crotch of the trouser.
Body of the shirt: The body of the shirt should taper at the hips so as not to come out of the trousers.
Horizontal sleeve button hole: Shirts should have a button on the sleeve about the middle of the forearm to prevent the bare arm from showing as you move.. A refined touch is for the button hole to be cut & stitched horizontally instead of the traditional vertical hole.
Cuff Size: When dressing, If you are able to slide your hand through the cuff without unfastening it, then it is too large.
Shirt tail gusset: Another refined touch is a small gusset at the split of the tail.